Basic Toe-Up No-Flap Socks

This pattern is a conflagration of three other patterns and a few years worth of minor modifications... it makes a sock that fits me well and is remarkably easy to knit.  There's not even any stitches to pick up when making the heel. 

Toe

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-On[reference 3], Cast on 16 stitches (8x2)

ROUND 1: First needle: K2, KFB[reference 2], K1.  Start next needle.  K1, KFB, K2.  Start 3rd needle.  K2, KFB, K1.  Start 4th needle. K1 KFB K2.  20 stitches on needles, five per needle.

ROUND 2: *K2, KFB, K2* to end of row.  24 stitches, 6 per needle.

ROUND 3: *K2, KFB, K to end of needle. K until 3 stitches remain on needle, KFB into 3rd last stitch, K2* Repeat once to finish round.

REPEAT Round 3 twice more (there are now 8 stitches per needle, 32 total).

ROUND 4: K*

ROUND 5: Repeat ROUND 3.

REPEAT: Repeat rounds 4 and 5 until you have 16 stitches per needle (64 stitches total)

Foot

WORK EVEN in stockinette rounds (K to end of round) until sock measures 5.75” (For US Size 8.5, or 4” less than your foot length. See chart in reference 1.)

Gusset

SET-UP ROUND: Knit instep stitches; M1R[reference 4], place heel marker, Knit to end of round, place second marker, M1L. *2 gusset stitches increased, 31 stitches between markers

ROUND 2: Knit

ROUND 3: Knit instep stitches, M1R, knit to end of round, M1L

ROUND 4: Knit

REPEAT Rounds 3 and 4 until you’ve increased 12 gusset per side, giving a total of 88 stitches total.

Heel Turn

The heel is worked back and forth in a short-rows on 31 stitches between markers.  This uses a wrap and turn technique as seen in reference 5.

HEEL TURN ROW 1: (RS) Knit to one stitch before second marker.  Wrap the next stitch, turn work.

HEEL TURN ROW 2: (WS) Purl to 1 stitch before marker, wrap next stitch, turn work

HEEL TURN ROW 3: (RS) Knit to 1 stitch before last wrapped stitch, wrap next stitch, turn work.

HEEL TURN ROW 4: (WS) Purl to 1 stitch before last wrapped stitch, wrap next stitch, turn work.

REPEAT Heel Rows 3 and 4 until 12 stitches remain unwrapped in the centre of the heel stitches, ending with a wrong-side row.

Heel Flap

Decrease the gusset stitches while working the heel flap as follows. 

HEEL FLAP ROW 1:  (RS) Knit to first wrapped stitch.  *knit the wrapped stitch together with it’s wrap, repeat from * until 1 wrapped stitch remains.  Remove the marker.  Work the remaining wrapped stitch (together with it’s wrap) and the first gusset stitch together as ssk, turn work -- 1 gusset stitch decreased.

HEEL FLAP ROW 2: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to first wrapped stitch, * purl the wrapped stitch together with its wrap, repeat from * until 1 wrapped stitch remains.  Remove the marker. Work the remaining wrapped stitch (together with its wrap) and the first gusset stitch together as p2tog, turn work -- 1 gusset stitch decreased.

HEEL FLAP ROW 3:  (RS) Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, knit to 1 stitch before gusset stitches, ssk, turn work -- 1 gusset stitch decreased

HEEL FLAP ROW 4: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to 1 st before gusset stitches, p2tog, turn work -- 1 gusset stitch decreased.

CONTINUE: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but 2 gusset stitches have been decreased.  (one on each side), ending with a right-side row -- 66 stitches remain -- the final 2 gusset stitches will be decreased during the first round of the leg to give a smooth appearance and keep a gap from showing at the top of the gusset.

Leg

With right side still facing, work in rounds as follows.

SET-UP ROUND: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, knit to 1 stitch before first gusset stitch, ssk; knit across instep stitches; k2tog, knit to end of sole stitches -- 2 gusset stitches decreased.

REMAINING ROUNDS: Continue in stockinette until leg measures about 2” less than desired total length of 9½”, or 7½”.

Cuff

PATTERN ROW: *K2 P2 repeat from * to end of round.

CONTINUE: Repeat pattern row for 2”

BIND OFF using a stretchy bind-off method such as the sewn bind off [reference 6]

REFERENCES:

[1] Foot size chart: https://www.infinityshoes.com/size-chart

[2] KFB Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsWzpwSURUM

[3] Judy’s Magic Cast-on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBSepKDsVTk

[4] M1L and M1R Video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkOwLvcG7m8

[5] Wrap and Turn / Short Row Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urOn3DSHBlc

[6] Sewn Bind Off Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM40GtSq6a